The Place
Sumac Restaurant and Lounge owes its name to the precious red and tangy spice that has been used for over 2,300 years dating back to the ancient Phoenician Empire. Phoenicia was a region of the eastern Mediterranean that is now primarily modern Lebanon, with its influences still noted through contemporary Lebanese cuisine.
In 2014, Sumac opened its first branch in Hong Kong, immediately becoming a star of the Asian culinary scene for its exquisite interpretation of Lebanese traditional cuisine and deep understanding of the Mediterranean dietary culture.
Sumac has scored numerous awards for ‘Best Lebanese Restaurant in Asia’ and ‘Best Mediterranean Restaurant’ from several publications including LUXlife and afoodieworld.com – which also named it one of the ‘14 Best Restaurants in Central.’
The new Beijing location aims to not just match but surpass the quality expected of the brand. Situated in a prime spot along a recently revitalized strip of the Liangma River – across from the Four Seasons Beijing and in the same building as Iberico by TRB – Sumac is sure to become a Beijing dining destination in no time.
The Food
Sumac prides itself on the authenticity of its food – all the chefs and kitchen staff are Lebanese – and they have earned it the That’s Beijing stamp of approval for serving up the best Lebanese food we’ve had in China. There, we’ve said it.
The cooks painstakingly prepare even seemingly simple appetizers, such as the Hummus (RMB78), which is ultra smooth and lush, with the skin removed from each chickpea to create a creamy paste sans any hint of the typically grainy texture.
If you think that’s a lot of effort to make hummus, wait until you try Sumac’s Special Fluffy Garlic Cream (RMB58). While it appears merely like a light yogurt speckled with mint, its sharp garlic tang contrasted against the silky mouthfeel will cause a battle of your senses (and a battle of willpower to not hog the entire bowl).
While Sumac wouldn’t share with us their secret method, they did mention that it’s labor intensive, and that the only two ingredients are garlic and olive oil; it just might be the eighth wonder of the culinary world.
Image by Yinmai O'Connor/That's
The Pita Bread (RMB38) you will likely be using to taste their dips is made in-house and arrives tableside still steaming from the oven, inflated like a crusted soft balloon of pure carb joy.
Although we are tempted to continue to gush about the other dips on the menu, there are many other dishes equally deserving of praise.
To begin, Sumac has an extensive selection of cold and hot mezze (appetizers) including Sambousik (RMB78), a savory meat pie in a crispy, golden dough shell with liberally seasoned minced meat and toasted pine nuts.
The Tabbouleh (RMB78) – a traditional Levantine salad – is fresh, vibrantly-colored, and heavy on the parsley, with the subtle tartness of a Meyer lemon juice dressing.
Most of the main courses are servings of grilled meat, with protein options spanning everything from lamb to frog.
For cooking said proteins, Sumac built a large custom-made charcoal grill in their colossal kitchen to give all the grilled dishes the authentic smokey aroma and charred texture necessary for bona fide Lebanese cuisine.
Image by Yinmai O'Connor/That's
As the name indicates, many of the dishes utilize the aforementioned sumac spiced, which boasts a bright, zippy flavor with a sour punch – similar to fresh lemon juice – and a mild fruity sweetness.
The Phoenician Fries (RMB58) are seasoned with a blend of sumac and smoked spices, expertly crispy without being too oily nor too thick – but first timers may want to save their stomach space for the more traditional items on the menu.
Image by Yinmai O'Connor/That's
With so many dishes to choose from, we recommend the Mixed Grill Sumac’s Special (RMB398/small, RMB728/full) that includes a selection of Chicken Taouk, Kafta, Lamb Chops, Jumbo Prawns, and Grilled Vegetables.
The full portion platter easily feeds four people, especially if you have already indulged on the appetizers and dips.
Sumac utilizes an array of ingredients that showcase a diverse range of flavors that make up Lebanese fare. Case in point, the Chicken Liver (RMB98) is soaked in a thick pomegranate sauce that you’ll want to drink with a spoon, even when there isn’t any meat left.
Image by Yinmai O'Connor/That's
However, make sure to save room for dessert. The Pistachio Mafroukeh (RMB88) is a roasted Semolina pistachio dough topped with Sumac’s Ashta milk cream, assorted nuts, and an orange blossom syrup. Simultaneously light and decadent, the portions may seem small, but if you try to share them – you might just find yourself in a staring contest for the last bite.
A fully stocked bar sits in the restaurant’s center – where patrons can order anything from a vodka soda to a RMB100,000 bottle of whiskey – but the drink menu focuses on a well-curated wine list featuring respected Lebanese labels such as Chateau Musar and Kefraya, with prices starting at RMB568 a bottle. There are also French and Chinese wines, as well as wine by the glass, but the menu is subject to change as the Sumac team is constantly working to expand their list of unique imports.
The Vibe
The decor is raw sandstone, Mediterranean tiles, cream-colored walls with wood accents, and tasteful Phoenician hieroglyphics. The space is refreshingly well-lit and minimal compared to many of Beijing's darker, overly ostentatious fine dining locals.
In addition to the spacious general dining area, there are several private rooms with set menu options and eye-catching light fixtures available for reservation.
Sumac also offers Shisha (RMB208) you can enjoy on the outdoor seating overlooking the river (when the weather is right).
Sumac isn’t a place you want to show up wearing dirty sneakers; most of the cliental is well-dressed and the staff is impeccably trained – the bathroom attendant even turns the faucet on and off for you.
The waiters are attentive, and the affable manager makes sure you have everything you need to enjoy your meal – he even remembers where return customers sat during their last visit.
Sumac isn’t a place for people looking for a huge meal on a tight budget, but their incredible appetizers make Sumac a restaurant worth stopping by for even just a quick dip.
Price: RMB300- 600
Who’s Going: Foodies, businesspeople, fancy dates
Good For: Celebrations, culinary experiences, impressing clients
Everyday, 11am-midnight
Sumac, No.53 Maizidian Lu, 1F Liangma Harbor South Building, Chaoyang
[Cover and additional photos are courtesy of Sumac]
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