Spotlight is a regular series where we feature a prominent person in the style scene. This month we speak with Angie Wu, founder of Awu.
Tell us about your backstory and how growing up in different places has shaped you as a jewelry designer.
I was born in Taipei, moved to Buenos Aires when I was 10, and immigrated again to Montreal when I was 18. My mom is a biologist and she loves adventure, so that’s why we moved to Buenos Aires, where I was exposed to the world of handicraft in different weekend markets while browsing through the handmade work of the local artisans, I dreamed of becoming one someday. Montreal is where I fully explored my creative side by studying fine arts and industrial design.
I moved to Shanghai in 2005. It was the place where my design career took off, thanks to my position as the chief representative officer and project manager for a design firm. In 2014, at the age of 38, I decided that it was time to fulfill my lifetime dream of setting up a studio where I could express myself through my work. I chose jewelry design because it’s the perfect marriage between fine arts and product design.
Growing up in such contrasting cultures made me a more open-minded person. It also opened my eyes and exposed me to different styles and tastes. I was able to shape my worldview and personal style by merging them into one unique identity that embraces Asian, Latin, French and English aesthetics.
Walk us through what it was like for you to transition from an industrial designer to a jewelry designer.
It was an easy transition. I had years of experience creating unique and permanent exhibitions for various museums. The design principles applied to jewelry design are the same: brainstorming, concept development, design development, prototyping and production. All I needed to learn were new material properties such as precious metals, precious stones and enamels, and special techniques such as stone setting and enameling.
As a museum designer, I had to work with thousands of people and projects take years to complete. What I truly enjoy as a jewelry designer is that I can now create most of my work in a small studio. The time spent crafting a piece of jewelry on my bench is my favorite part of the job.
How do you come up with ideas for your collections?
Each expression of my work is a unique journey for me. Inspiration comes from many sources. The Fall collection, for example, was inspired by my black and white photography work in Montreal. One of my thesis projects was a series of photographs of fallen leaves floating on the river and canals. I truly loved the poetic feel of these images, and when I was exploring concepts to develop into jewelry in 2014, the first piece I made was the Fall Ring that resembles a leaf floating horizontally over the fingers.
Is there a collection that has a special personal meaning to you?
That would be the Home collection because it answers a very personal inquiry that I have struggled to resolve for a long time. Since moving to Shanghai, I have been asked again and again where home is for me, and I had the hardest time answering this simple question. A lifetime of moving, immigrating and traveling contributed to a life rich in experience yet resulted in an identity crisis – the term 'home' has become so hard to define for me. After much reflection and analysis, I have come to the conclusion that home is where I am. So I created the Home collection to remind myself of that.
Are there differences between the preferences of your Chinese and non-Chinese clientele?
Non-Chinese clients tend to prefer silver as the material. They are attracted by either very minimal or geometrical designs, or by striking statement pieces, such as the Wright collection, inspired by the architecture of Frank Lloyd Wright, and the Bamboo collection. Chinese clients, on the other hand, have a predilection for gold jewelry and smaller, more understated pieces suitable for everyday wear, like the Home collection, which features simple lines and a meaningful concept attached to it, or the Fall collection, with subtle patterns and organic profiles.
Any plans to expand your brand?
From the beginning I always planned for my brand to be global. In the next few years I hope to be able to spend some time working in Thailand, a country I am drawn to for its silversmith tradition and techniques, and for its beautiful culture and hospitality. Finally my strong cultural connection to Europe and North America makes reaching out to these markets one of my long-term objectives, possibly basing my studio in Barcelona, the hub of the art jewelry sector.
For more, visit awustudio.com or her WeChat Store at angiewush.
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