The Place
The latest Japanese export to plant a foot in Shanghai, Ramen David is one of the most promising new noodle imports we've found, tucked just behind Nanjing Xi Lu on Fengxian Lu.
But just who is the eponymous David, some brave gaijin who decided to tackle ramen making? Nay, it is David Ito (デビット伊東), a Japanese 80s-era pop star and TV actor who turned to ramen after an injury cut short his career in the entertainment industry.
Inside, the restaurant functions as a sort of shrine to its founder, with images of David in various bizarre staged photos on every wall.
The Food
Like the Japanese original, Ramen David offers three different flavors, one Hakata-style tonkotsu (pork-based ramen), one chicken shoyu (soy sauce-based ramen), and one chicken shio (sea salt) ramen. All three of them are delicious, but the tonkotsu flavor comes out on top.
With a rich and flavorful soup at its heart, Ramen David's simple tonkotsu is among the best RMB48 you can spend on ramen in Shanghai. This is the dish that'll restore your faith in the world when it all looks too bleak, when the winter's cold, the streets are grey and Donald Trump sits smugly in the White House.
Is it capable of righting all that's wrong with the world? Maybe not, but for at least one bowl you might forget these problems exist.
If that wasn't sufficient in soothing your soul, the pure shoyu ramen (soy-based chicken broth, RMB42) is a character all of its own, laced with marinated bamboo shoots, lean pork shoulder and thick yellow noodles. It's worth asking for these al dente (ying, 硬) to take advantage of their full bite.
For saltier palates, the golden shio ramen (salt chicken base, RMB42) is a mellow alternative to the shoyu. However, neither of the latter two include soft-boiled egg, so good it's worth adding to your order for RMB8.
As for sides, chashu fried rice (RMB38) is the standout dish Ramen David has to offer. Studded with chunks of chashu, the same thinly sliced pork belly roll that tops the tonkotsu ramen, along with fried egg, scallions and cabbage. It's almost enough to distract you from the ramen itself.
Don't be tempted by the golden lightly fried beef steak (RMB48). Despite being awesome, delicious and rare the first time we tried, by visits two and three the tender steak had been replaced by a chewy, sinewy cut instead.
As for drinks, treat yourself to a nice, refreshing pile of frozen Asahi (RMB25). The idea (we think?) is that the frozen cap of foam insulates the beer underneath and keeps it cold. Either that or it just looks cool.
Food verdict: 2/3
The Vibe
Like ramen shops in Japan, anticipate sitting at a bar if you're a solo diner, and in Ramen David's case, itty bitty stools nailed to the floor. However, parties of four get the potential luxury of a booth.
Sharing this space is a crowd of young locals and troupes of Japanese businessmen downing pints of whisky highball, always a good sign if you're looking for a signifier of authenticity.
Vibe verdict: 1/1
Value for Money
Cheap, simple, and good quality, Ramen David is a rare example of a new restaurant that belies expectations in terms of value. The regular portion was enough for us, especially with sides and beer, but larger appetites can also take advantage of a free 'kae-dama' (noodle refill); just be sure to leave enough soup in your bowl to accomodate them.
Value for Money: 1/1
TOTAL VERDICT: 4/5
Price: from RMB42 per person
Who's going: young locals and Japanese expats
Good for: ramen, cheap eats, solo diners, dates, Japanese food
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