In an age where speakeasies are starting to outnumber conventional, out-of-the-closet cocktail bars, we’ll forgive your groan upon hearing that Shanghai’s newest one is surreptitiously hidden behind a Laundromat. It’s called Laundry Co. (no relation to Liquid Laundry), and comes from the minds behind Barber Shop, which, you guessed it, does not offer haircuts.
Flanked by enormous steel washing machines, entrance to the bar is gained through a clinical steel door, a contrast to the cozy vintage ambiance inside.
As far as old timey speakeasy tropes go, Laundry Co. is one of the better looking ones, with a handsome copper-top bar, arched panels and carefully curated bar paraphernalia.
Serenaded by the honky-tonk tones of speakeasy requisite ‘Why Don’t You Do Right,’ Laundry Co. gets the prohibition vibe correct, only spoiled slightly by the fact that neither of its two toilets could be persuaded into flushing patron excretions. Although in some ways this shows commitment to the theme - plumbing of the 1920’s was arguably not what it is today.
Boasting an especially good whisky selection, nearly all of which are offered by glass as well as bottle, the signature cocktail program takes aim at the whimsical drinker. They have names like Chanel Club (RMB150), Princess Martini (RMB110) and Mean Girls (RMB95, above) We can confirm the latter is a delicious Regina George of the cocktail world – tart, petite, effervescent and without as much sweetness as you’d think.
After downing a well-executed Hibiki blended whisky highball (RMB150, above), gingery scotch tones of the Glasgow mule (RMB100, below) and fun, banana rum and genmaicha tea flecked Escape from Las Vegas (RMB100, bottom), we decide there’s no denying the cocktails, nor Laundry Co’s mixologists are lacking in finesse.
But four drinks in, and we’ve spent the equivalent of a fairly fancy dinner. And for what? They take all of 2 minutes to make, and are composed of 90 percent imperishable ingredients. We understand they have costs to cover and that the lucrative nature of cocktail bars such as these is what incentivizes people to open them in the first place, but we wish there could be a few concessions. Nevertheless, it is beautiful, young and trendy. Good for post-annual bonus celebration.
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