For too long, Heaven Supermarket has enjoyed a sinister monopoly over Xindong Lu’s Tex-Mex scene.
To be fair – and in the interest of full disclosure – we can’t actually remember if the food there is any good. Perhaps our memories of late-night nachos were suppressed in a subconscious act of self-preservation. Or maybe we were inebriated. But if Heaven’s food is anything like its clientele, it would have been instantly forgettable and covered in a thin layer of grease.
It matters not. Because after months of teasing (we first spotted the sign well before Christmas), Fiesta Tex-Mex has opened its doors. Inside we find an airy subterranean setting of light wood surfaces, scenes of cowboy life and imitation longhorn skulls. Hanging wicker lampshades above each table are a nice touch, as is the rather believable faux cactus.
Fiesta’s interior is well done. But we should not ignore a defining characteristic — its size. Seating up to 150 diners, this is arguably Chaoyang’s most ambitious hospitality project since its owners opened the equally huge Hacker-Pschorr Brauhaus next door (which can, incidentally, send German-style brews across if tequila-based cocktails don’t tickle your taco). Should the duo attract enough custom, their shady sunken terrace could become one of the summer’s finest al fresco finds.
The food at Fiesta is certainly good enough to give them a fighting chance. After ordering from an iPad menu (but of course), we are presented with some hearty dips — a feta-topped guacamole and chunky tomato salsa (RMB48 each), both of which are excellent. They are followed by a tortilla soup (RMB26), which sees strips of chicken and tortilla swimming in a warming broth, enlivened by radish and lime.
But chef Adam Puetzfeld excels himself with the meat-heavy mains. His deep-fried burritos with chicken, salsa and cabbage (RMB73) are wonderfully crispy and, thankfully, not too greasy. The braised pork DIY burritos (RMB62) and chorizo quesadillas (RMB72) are also standouts. Both are well cooked and bursting with tender meat. Our only complaint comes with the roast chicken (RMB92/184, half/whole), which is a little dry. But that’s not really what we’re here for.
So, not only has Fiesta secured its place as the best Tex-Mex on Xindong Lu, but it could also give the city’s others a run for their pesos. And if your definition of a fiesta is closer to that envisaged by R Kelly (think “popping Cris[tal] on a daily base” and adding “a little juice to Tanqueray” — ‘Fiesta,’ 2000) then there is more good news — an adjoining club of the same name is set to open shortly.
Images by Holly Li
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