Ingenuity is an inseparable part of the culinary industry – provided, of course, that it makes sense. For Maozi Xifa, the combination of its name (which translates ‘hat trick’ – meaning three goals scored by a player in sports), its logo (a top hat with a fish for the brim) and its interior (riveted leather furniture with graffiti of Spiderman and the Hulk) makes for a muddled mess of motifs. Located just above Bosphorus, the new venue has completely transformed Salala’s loft-like appeal and replaced it with a secluded, nautical wonderland of nude mermaids and neon signs screaming “GRILLED FISH.”
Confusing themes aside, it was relatively clear one should order something from the sea. Grass carp (RMB128), basa (RMB158) and sea bass (RMB168) are the only options, but come with a choice of 13 different sauces from regions across China, including a sour Guizhou broth and spicy Chongqing gumbo.
March 14, 2016
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