Deep in the heart of southern Scotland lies Gretna Green, a village famous for hosting runaway weddings in the late 1700s when laws tightened marriage requirements in England and Wales. The BBC estimates that at least 5,000 still tie the knot within Gretna’s borders each year, which would translate to one out of every six Scottish weddings.
Emerging from the underground metro station in Zhujiang New Town, one feels strikingly detached from Caledonia’s emerald expanse. A 10-minute walk through towering skyscrapers leads one to Fuli Yingfeng plaza, where Guangzhou’s version of Gretna Green stands opposite Friends hangout Central Perk.
Inside, a fully stocked bar, wine racks and overhead flags give the impression of a homey Scottish pub, but the polished eatery is better described as a Western-Chinese diner.
The menu is scattered with curious titles, including Malaysian curry with seafood and rice in a bread bowl (RMB68) and chicken fillet demae ramen (RMB36). It’s easy to compare the Asian-inspired dishes to those in a Hong Kongese tea house restaurant, but a few expert touches reveal the owner is attempting something greater.
Single-origin coffees (RMB38), for example, bring patrons a taste of beans from Ethiopia, Colombia, Guatemala, Indonesia and Jamaica. There’s also a thick beverage menu with everything from Dorothy Angel Pink Sparkling Wine (RMB218) and Macallan 25 Year (RMB13,888) to Punk IPA (RMB48).
The mains, too, burst with sophistication – at least in name. Grilled foie gras with blueberry sauce (RMB138), baked lobster with cheese and mushroom (RMB238) and Australian thick-cut sirloin with apple and black pepper sauce (RMB168) are among the pricier options.
Yet again, when steaming dishes are finally delivered – and repositioned over and over again by a pair of shaky hands – one feels far from the culinary finesse of Europe. An overwhelming sense that something is ‘off’ heightens concern that the sirloin is undercooked, even for an order of medium-rare.
The risotto with black truffle (RMB48) is prepared fairly well, with an appetizing balance of cream and potent truffle. Health-conscious patrons should ask for half the salt.
Afternoon tea sets are popular at Gretna, which also markets itself as a British tea cafe on Chinese websites. Opt for a local set with egg tarts, stir-fried beef over noodles and lemon tea (RMB46), or try the high tea combo (RMB98), which features a cup of coffee and macaroons, mousse cake and finger sandwiches on a tiered stand.
Listed as a recommended item, the cream and cheese pudding with crisp fritter (RMB28) tastes more like artificial whipped cream topped with crushed corn flakes. Spare your sweet tooth the disappointment and find another venue for dessert.
If Gretna Green, Guangzhou, anticipated flocks of eager couples at its doorstep, it probably didn’t consider the inherent challenge of recreating a Scottish village in southern China. Prompting runaways, on the other hand, is something it could definitely accomplish.
Price: RMB100
Who’s going: Local newlyweds, girls-day-out parties
Good for: Afternoon tea sets, single-origin coffee
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