New Restaurant: Asia Table

By Lena Gidwani, August 24, 2016

The Thais, as we were told this one fine evening in a pub, like to see themselves as the Italians of Asia. Our culinary authority – who frankly was just a bloke backpacking around Guangdong on his gap year – appears to be on to something. With a fair few Thai restaurants popping up recently, it wasn’t a revelation to find the likes of Asia Table at the new Parc Central Mall in Tianhe District.

Like many a mall restaurant, it’s more or less entirely devoid of oomph; rather it’s easy and airy, with plenty of palm trees painted on walls and imported food products on display to furnish a tropical, authentic sentiment. On a summery evening however, we rather missed the daylight: the back tables have a lugubrious feeling about them so opt for a spot out near the baked goods and fruit display fridge.

The double-sided grayscale menu (a temporary measure, we are told) is clear and engaging, with more of that toothsome friendliness; but it also asserts its heritage, labeling categories first in Thai, then in both English and Chinese.

The food is served in no particular order, so it’s really just about chowing down. The green papaya salad with chili sauce (RMB38), a dish you’re probably familiar with, left a velvety feeling in the mouth and came with an overambitious, solid hit of heat that left us a little thirsty. If that happens to you, try the thirst-quenching and extremely icy lemongrass virgin mojito (RMB32) or the Thai iced milk tea (RMB30).

A notable zone of excellence includes the chef recommendations: the stir-fried kale with roasted pork belly (RMB56) comes dressed with a delicious sauce that delights. A must-have is Pla Pao, a Thai-style grilled fish (set market price, inquire within) that’s coated with coarse salt to lock in its natural moisture. Once you peel away the tough crust, you're left with a piece of fish that is so moist and juicy, it almost dissolves on your tongue. The fried rice with pineapple and seafood (RMB88) is perhaps a gross interpretation – it’s more seafood than rice, but is sufficient enough to feed a party.

Of particular note are Asia Table’s homemade sauces, crafted fresh by the head chef who hails from Thailand. You will be served from the large glass jars that sit in front of a theatrical open kitchen, each with a kick of deliciousness. In an effort to cater to all, the restaurant also serves up baked goods like coffees and teas, pork floss buns (RMB7) and durian cakes (RMB32) that look mighty appetizing.