Dining at The Canton Place is a mixed bag: the ambiance is unrivaled, but service seldom comes with a smile and the check always manages to surprise.
Mad Fish, like its competitors on the circle, will set you and a friend back RMB200-400 for an average dinner. Its refreshingly large portion sizes and astute wait staff, however, are a welcome departure from the neighborhood norm.
A diverse assortment of dishes dot the menu, from osmanthus blossom croissants (RMB16) and crab quiche (RMB29) to chilled mussels with wasabi green sauce (RMB88) and smoked duck breast sandwiches (RMB29). We’re told Mad Fish is trying to be a go-to locale for breakfast, lunch and dinner, but so far the place only comes alive at night.
Fusion is the name of the game here, and the chef has done an exceptional job with the fusilli calamari in curry coconut cream sauce (RMB68), where chili oil and Chinese prickly ash are blended with cream over homemade fettuccine. It’s an ingenious combination, as the zesty, numbing spices combat the cloying nature of the cream, allowing one to dig in without feeling unpleasantly full.
The cinnamon caramel croissant (RMB16) is agreeably flaky, sweet and light. But if you do arrive for breakfast (which starts at 8.30am), try a slice of the tuna and onion quiche (RMB29) instead, which is somewhat of a rarity in Guangzhou and is baked with equal parts egg and filling, making it lighter than your classic egg-centric quiche.
It’d be a shame not to try at least one pot of the fresh Chilean blue mussels while you’re here. Order a round with lobster meatballs in white wine cream sauce (RMB109) or doused in kimchi sour and spicy sauce (RMB99) for an invigorating main. We wish Mad Fish offered some hearty dinner bread to dip into the luscious sauces, but alas, we ended up having to purchase a baguette at Corner’s Deli and BYO-Breading.
For drinks, there’s a versatile mix of fruit teas (RMB36), Vietnamese coffee (RMB22-28), bubbly (RMB128-278) and white wines (RMB35/glass, RMB138-288/bottle). Whether you come for brunch, afternoon tea or a late dinner, it’s easy to find the right food-drink combo to fit the mood.
There’s not as much selection for dessert, however: you can choose between classic, rose petal or mango creme brulee, all of which sell for RMB29. The latter is topped with a plump mango bead on top, which bursts like an egg yolk when you poke it with a spoon. It’s a visual feat, but the combination of burnt caramel and syrupy mango puree literally falls flat.
Aside from the fun Sichuan-Italian culinary mash-ups and delicious quiche, we give Mad Fish a thumbs-up for its professional wait staff, stylish interior and the sunny patio that welcomes al fresco dining any day of the year.
Price: RMB200
Who’s going: 30-somethings, Canton Mansion residents
Good for: homemade quiche, fresh mussels and fusion dishes
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