The Place
We embarked on the relatively painless metro ride to Foshan with one burning question: why would a fast-casual naan burger concept from Washington DC choose Foshan, China of all places to launch its second shop? Nothing against Lingnan Tiandi, of course – it’s one of our favorite dining destinations. But something just didn't add up.
It turns out moving to China was an unexpected leap of faith for cofounder Kamran Cheema as well. “Expanding was always the goal, but China right off the bat? Probably not,” he says.
Born and raised in DC, Cheema had visited China – and Foshan’s vast furniture markets – many times before, but it was the traditional architecture of Lingnan Tiandi that really spoke to him.
“I like to find iconic, historic buildings,” Cheema explains. “The one in DC is the oldest commercial building downtown – about 200 years old. It took more than two years to restore.”
His Foshan renovations went a bit quicker – done in just two months. Still, he says preserving the original open ceiling (which is gorgeous, by the way) wasn’t easy. “Everyone told us to seal it off. You’d think they’d embrace the old vibe, but it took a lot of back and forth [to keep it].”
The result is a mix of old and new: funky floral furniture, golden chandeliers and three flat-screen TVs in the floor serve to jazz up the weathered brick interior.
It’s enough to attract well-to-do locals who might otherwise fail to grasp the appeal of 'Americanized' South Asian cuisine.
The Food
Invented by Cheema and his brother when they were kids (and often had to cook for themselves while their physician parents worked long hours), naan burgers are undoubtedly the main attraction at Grand Trunk.
We preferred the classic beef version over the Washington ‘Capital Chicken,’ as the former packs a punch of seasoned flavor (both RMB88 for a single patty, RMB148 for double).
The organic ground beef, imported from Australia, is marinated in mouthwatering spices like ginger, black cumin, green chilies and onions, then topped with cheese, tomatoes, lettuce, mint chutney and GT’s ‘secret’ house sauce. All that goodness is stuffed inside a fluffy, just-baked tandoori naan. Mmmm.
A single burger should be enough for one, especially if you’re eyeing a side of garlic fries (RMB48) and one of the many intriguing entrees.
Some of Grand Trunk’s recipes have been in the family for generations, originating with Cheema’s great grandmother from Pakistan, who learned from top chefs in India while she spent years traveling the subcontinent with her husband.
That homemade touch is evident in the grass-fed New Zealand lamb masala (RMB158) and country style dal tadka (RMB78). Both are refreshingly light, relying less on salt and more on a wealth of spices ground daily in DC and shipped to China.
Exotic naans (like the ‘salsa quesadilla,’ RMB68), ‘naanzas’ (or pizza naans) and dessert naans round out the menu, along with a variety of beverages like the mango lassi (RMB58) and presumably calorific hot truckers’ tea (RMB48), best left for cool winter nights.
Prices are steep, but Cheema explains that's because only high-quality, imported ingredients are used. The whole menu is halal, and gluten-free, vegetarian and vegan options are available upon request.
The Vibe
Grand Trunk is all about chowing down on comfort food in an upscale setting. Naan burgers are presented plainly in tinfoil, but the decor is nice enough where you’ll feel a little guilty getting sauce on the plush chairs.
As he’s done in DC, Cheema hopes to promote a strong community vibe at the Foshan branch, so group activities (such as yoga out on the courtyard) may be routine in the near future.
Our final verdict? We’d happily make the trek again to split a double naan burger and some fabulous lamb masala with friends – as long as they’re willing to go Dutch.
Price: RMB200
Who’s going: Foshan visitors and expats, affluent locals
Good for: naan burgers, home-style South Asian cuisine
Nearest metro: Zumiao (Exit C), 10 minutes
Open 365 days a year, 10am-10pm; see listing for Grand Trunk.
[Cover photo by The Washington Post; others via Jocelyn Richards, Leo Lei, Kamran Cheema and Clarissa Villondo]
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