A bar that’s enjoyed nuggets of favorable media attention since opening in April, Wonderland is one of the most interesting new concepts this season, but after visiting in the flesh we’ve concluded that it’s more for its head-scratching weirdness.
The brainchild of Johan Holmberg, a mixologist whose affordable and tasty cocktails have helped secure awards at Donghu Lu bar The Parrot, and raucous popularity at the new Funkadeli on Fumin Lu, Wonderland is conceived as boozy homage to Alice in Wonderland. The staff wear t-shirts blazoned with the Carrollian maxim “We’re all mad here,” but they seem sane compared to the bonkers setting.
Perhaps a list is the most effective way to convey Wonderland’s oddities: a well-trampled carpet (circa 1986), white faux fur-covered walls, a bathtub filled with beer tinnies...
A Taobao Louis XV-style dining table with oversize playing cards and tea set, a live rabbit in a cage with a football, plastic gold coaster doilies, dozens of plastic butterflies, a cactus with a Swedish flag stuck in it… we could go on.
Put simply, it’s a lot of design features that seem like they'd be a good idea when you're high in one space – apart from the nice wall mural, featuring Johnny Depp’s Mad Hatter with a slightly nervous smile on his face. There’ll be no escape for you, Johnny...
In amongst the madness, there are cocktails. The good: a Jameson whisky Strawberry Sour (RMB65) reminiscent of Haribo Strawbs – our favorite of the gummy candy lineage.
The bad: a funky-tasting Olmeca tequila Paloma (RMB65) from a margarita machine.
The ugly: a Mushroom Garden (RMB65) with gin, mint, lime, bitters, and raw mushroom garnish; this was less mushroom more mojito that’s spent a while in a blender.
In sum, Wonderland attempts to be a realm of ramshackle fun and good vibes, but in honesty we didn't fall for it. It's true what they say: appearances can be deceiving, and we won't be coming back.
Price: Drinks from RMB65
Who’s going: locals and expats
Good for: whimsical cocktails, the insane
Read more Shanghai Bar Reviews
0 User Comments