Shanghai Restaurant Review: Dao Jiang Hu

By Cristina Ng, August 30, 2018

The Place

When it comes to Chinese cuisine, authenticity or the lack thereof gets people fired up. This tug-of-war between tradition and innovation is being waged in kitchens across Shanghai, where diners are as fickle as they are picky.

Image courtesy Dao Jiang Hu

Joining the fray is Dao Jiang Hu, named after a Shanghainese colloquialism meaning to stir up gossip or mess around, with a touch of mischief. Here, Chef Betty Ng’s exploration of Chinese regional dishes with an adventurous, price-friendly menu utilizing Western ingredients and techniques has made Dao Jiang Hu one of Shanghai’s more intriguing new openings.

The Food

When navigating the fusion dining scene, the pivotal question is, ‘Does this change make the original better?’ Oftentimes the answer is no, but Dao Jiang Hu hits the mark on a few occasions.

Image by Cristina Ng/That's

For example, the chili and sesame beef bites (RMB52) whereby crunchy morsels of battered meat sit on peppery British-style parmesan crackers see the mix of Eastern and Western spices come together in a playful way.

Image by Cristina Ng/That's

In another instance, a shower of fragrant julienned shiso leaves and plump, briny salmon roe (ikura) cross a staple Chinese crab and egg fried rice (RMB68/88 for small/large) with a sushi hand roll in a fresh, attractive manner.

Image by Cristina Ng/That's

Reminiscent of eight treasures duck (babao ya), the lotus chicken in rice crust (RMB188) is a bona fide star where the whole bird is stuffed with shitake, Yunnan ham and sticky rice. An irresistibly earthy flavor permeates the meat, rendering the accompanying peanut, ginger and sesame dipping sauce superfluous. It takes one hour to prepare, so order this dish as soon as you sit down.

Image by Cristing Ng/That's

Their kung pao prawns (RMB88) fall short in taste, but excel in an exciting mix of textures brought on by fresh and dried chili, leeks, cashews, mountain yam and fried basil.

Image by Cristina Ng/That's

weaking Yunnan cheese (RMB68) with grilled tomatoes, balsamic glaze and basil does not improve on the original. An inferior version of mapo tofu (RMB68) isn’t spicy enough, and the feta brings nothing to the table.

Food Verdict: 2/3

The Vibe

There has been a lot of movement at 20 Donghu Lu this year, but a fresh coat of paint and some colorful portraits of Shanghainese aunties on bold backgrounds by artist Basmat Levin help spice up the atmosphere.

Image courtesy Dao Jiang Hu

While some dishes give us pause, it is pretty cool to see such unabashed experimentation in the kitchen, and for that we applaud Dao Jiang Hu. Looking past the food, moderate prices and friendly service make this an excellent place for casual group dinners.