Shanghai needs more Prohibition-themed whiskey bars, says no one ever. Malt Fun, however, is a highly regarded member of this genre, which piqued our interest in their new concept: Mary & Magnate. This joint consists of two different concepts, with Mary (named for the black and white film ingenue M. Pickford) churning out creative lower ABV tipples, and Magnate serving straight-up classics.
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
Spread over three floors, the retro-themed décor and requisite jazzy jams definitely set the mood. Starting on the ground floor, the lightly alcoholic and imaginative drinks are plays on the bar’s name. Poppins (RMB88), for instance, is a faintly savory riff on a margarita. The addition of sesame oil adds an interesting note to a drink much more delicate than its inspiration.
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
Order ‘O’ (short for Mari-O, RMB88) and you will be warned that it’s a bit strong, but the peat-forward blend of Dolin vermouth, scotch, bourbon, Campari and yuzu liquor is right up our alley.
Fat washing is a centuries-old technique that is experiencing a resurgence, and we typically enjoy the effect, but in the case of Little Lamb (RMB88) a mix of clarified goat milk, citrus, biscuit and spiced Sailor Jerry rum resembles a gently-spiked – but boring – cereal milk.
In the more intimate environment at Magnate, the alcohol content increases twofold in 10 Classic Cocktails (all RMB100). There’s the standards (such as Manhattan, Old Fashioned and Bloody Mary) as well as more obscure drinks from the depths of the Savoy Cocktail Book.
After testing quite a few, we went off the menu with a French 75 and a Sazerac. While everything we ordered was solid, nothing excites enough to warrant the price tag. If they were using higher end pours and fresher ingredients, we’d be more understanding.
Overall the inventive Mary was more to our taste, especially as the delicious mix of complementary house-made spicy glazed nuts makes up for the smaller hit of booze. We’d go so far as saying they are the best bar snacks in town.
[Cover image by Cristina Ng/That's]
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