Are you over summer yet?
Nah. Despite the fact that you’re in Shanghai, a city that turns into an armpit this time of year, you've already survived the plum rains and steamy humidity; cooler temperatures are finally sight. But let’s be real, even 40+ degree weather isn’t going to stop us from indulging in these newest of menus.
Check out Part I here, Part II here, Part III here and Part IV here.
Yugo Grill
Yugo Grill opened early last spring as a popup window shop on the corner of Shaanxi Bei Lu and Wuding Lu, but after nightly lines stretched down the block, they decided to make the move to a more permanent space, taking over the lease for the now closed Lucky Diner, across from Shankangli.
Along with a bigger space (and actual sit-down restaurant), Yugo Grill has expanded into lunch, private catered events and late night eats – not just dinner – with a bigger menu.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Their most famous menu item, that put them on the map, is a pljeskavica – or a Yugoslavian burger patty – which happens to be the national dish of Serbia. Mixing together New Zealand beef chuck, which has a slightly higher fat content for more flavor, with 10% local pork, the meat is marinated for 48-72 hours in a secret blend of spices.
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Choose between the Not a Burger (RMB65) – a 200-gram patty – or the Gourmet Burger (RMB75) – a 250-gram patty mixed with chunks of cheddar and smoked bacon, that is then grilled over charcoal.
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Other menu options include Beef Sausages (RMB60) – 150 grams of no casing, 100% New Zealand beef marinated kebab-like sausages served in a pita with raw onions and addicting kajmak – unripe, sour spreadable cheese that tastes like a cross between cream cheese, feta and sour cream; we understand now why it is one of Serbia’s national dishes – and Where is My Bone? (RMB60), two ultra-juicy marinated, grilled chicken thighs sandwiched together on a pita, which is more popular some nights even than the burger.
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If you’re craving more of a hot dog, the Valter Kebab (RMB65), or it’s spicier cousin, the Angry Sausage (RMB55), are both served in a long bun with your choice of add-ons, the former being similar to the beef sausages, the latter being more like a double serving of a spicy ballpark hot dog.
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Newer on the menu are non-grilled sandwiches, of which there are currently three. All served on a fluffy potato bun, choose from the Komplet (RMB60) with smoked beef, kaymak, pickles, tomato and lettuce; the Beef Salad (RMB50) in a tangy mustard cream sauce; or the Veggie (RMB50), with a thick layer of kaymak, shredded cheese, tomato, lettuce and pickles.
For toppings, choose as many as you like. From commonplace options – like sliced tomato, lettuce, pickles, cabbage and raw onions – to Yugoslavian traditional sauces like kajmak, tartar sauce (Yugoslavia’s version of tzatziki, with the addition of rosemary), urnebes (slightly piquant cow’s milk cheese) and ajvar, a fiery tomato, paprika and chili-based sauce.
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The menu also sees the addition of a hefty whiskey and cocktail selection, imported Yugoslavian beer, shots of traditional Yugoslavian liquors like rakija and vinjak, wine and Eastern European coffee beverages, like Turkish coffee (served with Turkish delights) and Greek style frappes – essentially the precursor to Dalgona coffee.
See a listing for Yugo Grill
Mavis
Mavis rounded out the new wine bars hitting Shanghai in 2020. This 30-seater 'neo bistro' features natural wines, French culinary techniques and a hip unpaved cement wall surfaced with graffiti by local artists.
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Starting in August, the kitchen moved over to a fully set menu concept, where each diner can choose from a range of appetizers, starters, mains and desserts, with three courses for RMB398 and four courses for RMB428.
The major upside to the set menu is that diners at the same table don’t need to order the same set, meaning you can share with others at your table to taste a wider variety of dishes than before.
The menu will still continue to change quite regularly to keep it interesting for repeat customers, as well as staying up to date with seasonal produce.
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For an appetizer, start with a single serving portion of Fresh Burrata. Stretchy in strands like stracciatella – the choicest part of burrata – the bowl is garnished with pickled cherry tomatoes, watermelon and basil granita for a refreshing, summer-forward take on this year-round favorite.
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As for the starters, select from delicately soft Foie Gras Cake, lined with a gelatinous strip of sweet peach jelly and accented by dollops of lemon jam, fresh red fruits and mixed nuts or Smoked Duck Breast with a raw zucchini salad mixed with endive and orange and mustard dressing.
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Other choices span traditionally French plates like Pate en Croute served alongside a mustardy gribiche sauce, or less traditional Terrine made from crunchy pig ear and beef tongue, topped with a lightly dressed garden greens salad.
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At Mavis, Chef Jeremy Liu is all about using the entirety of all ingredients, wasting as little as possible. This is why you’ll find smoked duck breast and duck pate appetizers, duck butter sprinkled with duck fat and skin crumbles (served with warm, homemade bread) and roasted duck breast for a main.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Said Duck Breast is served atop a reduced red wine jus, along with a walnut and cherry halves-studded endive salad, while the Beef Sirloin rests on a pea purée and red wine beef jus, crowned with garlic sprouts and broccolini. On the lighter end of the spectrum, there’s also the Sea Bass with zucchini ribbons and an XO egg-based sabayon sauce.
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Beloved French desserts also show their faces, like the Mille-feuille – studded with a jasmine and lychee cream nestled between crisp shards of puff pastry cracker. A refreshing dollop of bergamot and Buddha’s hand sorbet comes together with loquat jam and a dusting of orange peel powder.
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Other summery options include Peach Compote plus a quenelle of raspberry sorbet, with a scattering of oat and brown sugar crumbles and white meringue shards, and cold and creamy Panna Cotta, which receives a liberal topping of seasonal fruits and berries.
See a listing for Mavis
Homeslice
Is a new season even worth mentioning without first discussing Homeslice's new pizzas? If you live in Shanghai, then the answer to that question is most definitely, "No."
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This summer, the chef's special pizza is coming at you from the man whose last name means summer in and of itself, Ramon Verano (Mikkeller Xintiandi, previously of Tomatito). Although Ramon is originally from Spain, he decided to take his pizza in a totally different direction, drawing on one of his favorite Chinese dishes for inspiration, Beijing's zhajiang mian.
Instead of your standard tomato sauce base, the Zhajiang Pizza (RMB30/slice, RMB150/16”, RMB240/20”) is first coated in a tomato, yellow bean and sweet noodle sauce, before being topped with aromatics like garlic, ginger, cassia and star anise.
Minced pork pieces cooked in the same flavor profile are spread out across the top, along with fresh, julienned carrot and cucumber shreds. All of the original zhajiang mian flavors are present, just with the noodle carbs swapped out for sourdough crust.
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Another less-traditional pizza, the White Artichoke Pizza (RMB30/slice, RMB150/16”, RMB240/20”) is all about the herb and lemon peel olive oil-marinated artichokes.
Roasted cherry tomatoes add color and a pop of tartness, while a sprinkling of fresh parsley and lemon zest bring out the artichokes' marinade even more, especially when coupled with fresh parmesan cream.
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For the ultimate cheesiness, the Supa Dupa Cheese Pizza (RMB30/slice, RMB150/16”, RMB240/20”) is pure cheese overload – a hyperbole of a pizza, if you will.
This pie sees not one, not two, not three, but five – count 'em – kinds of cheese smothering a tomato sauce base. They've got Italian fontina, house-made ricotta, provolone piccante, mozzarella and parmesan all culminating in an equal parts glorious and gluttonous slice.
While Homeslice is only offering three seasonal pizzas this summer, the Italian Meatball Pizza (RMB30/slice, RMB150/16”, RMB240/20”) from spring will be extended due to its overwhelming popularity.
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Bonus, here's a sneak peak on something spicy in the works. Stay tuned on Homeslice's Official WeChat Account for an in-store special pizza that will only be available one day, using both a dusting of crushed Flaming Hot Cheetos in the sauce plus a very, very generous coating of fresh ones on top.
Because spicy cheese gluttony knows no bounds.
See listings for Homeslice
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[Cover image by Sophie Steiner/That's]
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