The Place
A play on the word charcoal, Chaco’b opened quietly in the Shanghai Centre in early April, a Western-Chinese fusion joint focusing on – you guessed it – charcoal and applewood smoked bites.
'Chaco,' pronounced in Chinese, also means 'socket' or 'plug,' and the team's aim is that this place can reconnect people through delicious food, fine wine and music, by 'plugging' them back into the world.
The ‘b’ at the end of Chaco’b relates to the fact that this is the team’s second venue, following A Charcoal, a Japanese yakiniku, also located in Shanghai Centre.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The low-lit 50-seater space feels like a dive bar, outfitted heavily in restored wood – to align with the whole raging fire and smoked proteins theme – along with graffiti-splattered walls, edge-worn concert posters and record sleeves, with trendy alternative beats to match.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The owner – who prefers to remain anonymous – has her hand in a handful of Shanghai's hippest lifestyle hubs, so it’s rather fitting that this hidden bistro feels all too cool, a popular hangout for Chinese celebs and other Shanghai A-listers.
The Food
Image courtesy of Chaco'b
Chef Ricky Zhou brings together his experience interning at Mr. & Mrs. Bund, coupled with his time at Black Pearl-awarded venue Seul&Seul, to create a diverse fusion menu.
The common (albeit loose) thread is applewood smoke mingled with everything from Chinese, Thai and Japanese tastes to Spanish, French and Argentinian influences.
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Begin with plump Charcoal Grilled Oysters (RMB88/6, RMB168/12) topped with your choice of herbaceous sauce: a piquant Thai blend of lemongrass, birds eye chilis and fresh herbs; or a sour and garlic-forward Chinese smoked paste.
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A pudgy Passion Fruit Burrata (RMB98) bathes in a zippy cherry tomato, passion fruit and salted plum reduction – creating layers of tartness balanced by salty prosciutto shavings and that gooey stracciatella cheese center.
Crab Filet with Wakame (RMB38), Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Sourced from Wenzhou in the southern part of Zhejiang Province – straddling the Oujiang River on the East China Sea – the chewy Charcoal-Grilled Wenzhou Fish Cakes (RMB38) are flecked with seaweed powder and best enjoyed dunked in a ponzu dipping sauce.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Onto the proteins, the Lemongrass Chicken Thighs (RMB18) arrive smothered in a sweet and sticky Thai teriyaki sauce…
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… while the Australian Beef Skirt (RMB108) is served alongside a quenelle of “Chinese chimichurri” as Chef Ricky calls it – a blend of meirenjiao, red “beauty” chilis, and hangjiao, the milder, skinny green ones.
The duo of chilis is smoked before being roughly chopped and combined with parsley – a nip of heat and freshness to cut through the steak’s ribbons of fat.
A sprinkling of toasted quinoa on top adds a nutty crunch.
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A must-order, the humbly named Grilled Salmon (RMB68) offers diners a juxtaposition of texture – shatteringly crisp skin that serves as a crackly canvas for the oily fish beneath it.
Marinated salted egg yolk is frozen and shaved like fresh parmesan for added richness, along with cracked pepper and a dusting of powdered green tea leaves.
Other charcoal and applewood smoked grilled selections include Iberico Pork Belly (RMB48), Bullfrog Legs (RMB48), Pork Trotters in Sauce (RMB58) and Carnivorous Australian Beef Ribs (RMB98).
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
As for the starches, there’s Chaco’b Bread (RMB18) – a homemade nori seaweed bun, served with meirenjiao (Chinese red chili)-infused butter.
That can be enjoyed with Homemade Pickles (RMB18) – a crunchy trio of radishes, carrots and cauliflower…
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… as well as Crispy Pork Lard Rice (RMB28), fried up “Old Shanghai style,” with puffed pork skin rinds.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A late night South China drunk comfort eats, the Traditional Fish Soup (RMB38) is a Guangdong-style fish broth with springy octopus dumplings and wild lettuce, ideal for lining your stomach post libations.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Smoke-imbued offerings continue through to dessert, with the Charcoal Fired Pineapple (RMB28) crusted with sweetened assorted crushed nuts and black and white sesame seeds.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
On the drinks front, expect to find the usual suspects: craft and bottled beers for RMB18-58; 20-30 affordable wines to choose from, ranging mostly from RMB128-398 per bottle; a whiskey selection; classic cocktails for RMB38-48; and shots for RMB28 each.
The Vibe
The restaurant, in all aspects, can be summed up, for better or for worse, in one word: slapdash.
There is the seemingly random menu items that end up arbitrarily connecting on the basis of “fusion” (once you learn the dishes’ backstories).
There is the haphazardly thrown together, up-cycled furniture and décor concept – defined by the team as “sustainable design” – that all arrived as donations from other venues who didn’t want them anymore.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
It all feels a bit quixotically jumbled, leaving us with far more questions than answers on what Chaco’b really is.
Yet, sometimes the unintentional works, which explains why it’s been full every time we’ve stopped by.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Taking it at face value, it’s a casual, affordable, centrally-located, smoke-centric eatery, ideal for lounging, snacking and sipping, that has already garnered a cult following in the few short weeks it’s been open.
Will its whole 'controlled chaos' mantra work long term?
Too early to tell, but if there’s one thing we know about Shanghai, it’s that 25 million people have to eat every day, and the search for the newest, hottest spot – regardless of venue identity crisis – forever continues.
Price: RMB175-300
Who’s Going: Hip locals; grill fans; those living around the Shanghai Centre
Good For: Smoked proteins; affordable drinking; friendly catchups
Chaco'b, Shanghai Centre, No. 108, 1376 Nanjing Xi Lu, by Xikang Lu, 1376南京西路108室, 近西康路.
Read more Shanghai Restaurant Reviews.
[Cover image courtesy of Chaco'b]
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