Its origins may be highly contested – was tartare invented by the Mongols, the French, the Germans or the Brazilians? – yet that is irrelevant when it comes to enjoying this dish found in abundance around Shanghai.
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The French word 'tartare' is broadly defined as a high quality protein – usually beef, but sometimes horse meat, fish, or even vegetables – that is chopped, seasoned and served raw.
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And that is the crux: the main ingredient has to be raw. If it’s ‘cooked’ in any form of acid (like citrus), it crosses into the world of ceviche – an entirely different dish we will save for another day.
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Most commonly tossed with some variation of onions, capers, seasoning, mayonnaise, pickles, mustard and/or egg yolk, the classic tartare is savory and creamy with a hint of tang to cut through the fat.
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And it will come as no surprise that chefs in Shanghai have kicked their tartares up a notch, incorporating flavor profiles and ingredients from Japan and Vietnam to Italy and the Middle East, getting creative with everything from smoked vegetables to borderline still bleeding venison hearts... and everything in between.
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We've combed our archives and compiled an A to Z list of Shanghai's top tartares, focusing specifically on beef, the OG tartare base.
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Forks (or chopsticks) at the ready! It’s time to tartare your way around this city...
Epices and Foie Gras
Beef Tartar (RMB180)
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If you want the most quintessential tartare in Shanghai, look no further than Epices and Foie Gras’ Beef Tartar (RMB180).
Using lean grass-fed beef tenderloin, the meat's gamey undertones come through without being overpowered by extra fat.
Blended with homemade mayonnaise, mustard and capers, this tartare is all about honoring that luscious beef, further proving the old adage: if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.
Epices & Foie Gras, Rm.5, Bldg A1, 309 Hankou Lu, by Shandong Zhong Lu 汉口路309号A1号楼5室, 近山东中路
Gin Pork
Beef TATA (RMB88)
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The cheekily named Beef TATA (RMB88) at Gin Pork 金猪 sees roughly cubed pieces of raw beef smothered in a thick gochujang paste, interspersed with julienned pear.
A cured egg is crowned with jet black beads of roe, the gooey yolk bursting its lava-like center into all the nooks and crannies.
After each moreish mouthful we are left with just one question: why isn't everyone throwing gochujang into their tartare.
Gochujang makes everything better.
Objectively.
Facts.
Gin Pork, 526 Anyuan Lu, by Jiaozhou Lu 安远路526号, 近胶州路
La Scala
Wagyu Beef Tartare (RMB198)
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Plated to mimic the sun, the moon, and the stars, the Wagyu Beef Tartare (RMB198) at La Scala sees a ring of Chilean tenderloin surrounding a golden-hued egg yolk (the sun) – one that’s been cooked for an hour with chicken fat for a shmaltzy texture that augments the meat’s unctuousness.
A semi-circular Cajun spice-dusted lavash crisp acts as the moon, while the stars are represented through bright circular water chestnut cutouts.
La Scala, 380 Weihai Lu, by Shimenyi Lu 威海路380号, 近石门一路
L’ Atelier 18
Le Bœuf (Part of 10 Course Dinner Tasting Menu RMB2,888)
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Wagyu Australian M9 is presented two ways as Le Bœuf, a part of L’ Atelier 18's 10 Course Dinner Menu (RMB2,888).
First seared and dribbled with in a pepper sauce, the second rendition is raw – a mixed beef and shrimp tartare adorned with fried shrimp head and raspberry powder for juxtaposing tartness.
L’ Atelier 18, 3/F, 18 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, by Nanjing Dong Lu 中山东一路18号3楼,近南京东路
Mona
Beef Tartar (RMB128)
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A top seller at modern art museum Fotografiska's restaurant Mona, the Beef Tartar (RMB128) isn’t your everyday tartare; it receives a Japanese twist via seaweed dashi marmalade, wasabi oil, and crispy tempura-fried shiso leaves that act as the perfect crackly base.
The M5 Australian Rangers Valley beef is also flecked with shaved macadamia nuts, resulting in a nutty creaminess that is customarily achieved through parmesan.
Finally, briny caviar brings forth a hit of salinity, while pickled shallots add a pop of brightness.
Mona, Fotografiska Shanghai, 127 Guangfu Lu, by Wuzhen Lu 光复路127号, 近乌镇路
Mignon 9
Beef Tartar (RMB98)
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Sheathed by potato and cheese crisps, Mignon 9's traditional take on Beef Tartar (RMB98) consists of M3 flap married tableside with a runny yolk and pickled shallots.
Pickled gherkins and scallions bring both a sour twang and an earthy freshness to the dish.
Mignon 9, No.71 Wuyuan Lu, by Wulumuqi Lu 五原路71号, 近乌鲁木齐路
Ôdelice
Beef Tartare (RMB98)
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Ôdelice has been serving up French bistro fare along Shanghai’s leafy green tree-lined Xinle Lu since 2013.
As classic French as it comes, the Beef Tartare (RMB98) is a coupling of chopped raw beef, gherkins, capers and scallions, finished with a shiny yellow yolk – one that acts as the smarmy sauce combining all ingredients.
Encircled by pani puri – concave chickpea flour crisps – diners are encouraged to spoon said tartare inside them, the pani puri shell acting as the ideal scooping vessel.
Ôdelice, 208 Xinle Lu, by Donghu Lu 新乐路208号, 近东湖路
Pado
Raw Mixed Beef Tartare (RMB168)
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Cut into thick strips (as opposed to the more customary beef mince), Pado's take on Raw Mixed Beef Tartar (RMB168) is seasoned with fresh herbs, garlic, and sesame seeds, topped with julienned Asian pear, scallion kimchi, a cured egg yolk, and sliced green chilis.
Presented with crispy nori sheets, the suggested way to enjoy said tartare is to fill each sheet and wrap it like a taco, taking it down one meaty morsel after another.
Pado, #A101, 1107 Yuyuan Lu, by Fenggang Lu 愚园路1107号A01, 近凤冈路
Polux
Beef Tartare Tradition (RMB140)
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Polux's Beef Tartare Tradition (RMB140) distinguishes itself in that the beef is sliced into much larger chunks, making it all the more easy to sop up the venue's elevated take on a tangy thousand island dressing.
The delicately light rye crisps shatter under the weight of the beef, so best to just crumble them into the mix for added texture.
Don't miss the French fried potato cubes served on the side – the perfect marriage between a French fry and a tater tot.
Polux by Paul Pairet, No. 5, Lane 181, Taicang Lu, by Huangpi Nan Lu 新天地太仓路181弄5号, 近黄陂南路
Scarpetta
Wagyu Beef Carpaccio & Tartare (RMB268)
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The Wagyu Beef Carpaccio & Tartare (RMB268) at Scarpetta features a duo of meats – seared and sliced M5 Wagyu carpaccio and M9 tenderloin tartare – yet its meatiness is tempered by acidic pickled shimeji mushrooms.
Layers of truffle aioli and rosewood smoked quail egg are amplified by the heavy musk aromas of copious amounts of more truffle.
A sprinkling of rosemary salt, mustard seeds, lemon zest and basil culminate in one expertly balanced bite.
Scarpetta, 33 Mengzi Lu, by Xujiahui Lu 蒙自路33号, 近徐家汇路
Sober Company
Beef Tartare (RMB135)
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Sober Company's green tea-smoked Beef Tartare (RMB135) is made with UYYU Wagyu filet marinated in a tosa soy sauce – made from soy and dashi – bedazzled with glistening Hubei sturgeon caviar and scallions.
The nutty tea aroma impregnates every millimeter of beef, enhanced by nature’s butter: diced avocado cubes.
Sober Company, F106, 109 Yandang Lu, by Nanchang Lu 雁荡路109号F101室, 近南昌路
Something
Beef Tartare (RMB138)
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As you have no doubt deduced by now, it's safe to say we’ve had our fair share of tartares, but the campfire smoke pluming from the glass candy dish that houses Something’s Beef Tartare (RMB138) is more than a gimmicky attention grabber.
The peaty char plays nicely with the beetroot’s earthy sweetness, one of the five rainbow stripes that embellish the chopped beef.
A surprising introduction of kimchi adds a fermented, sour funk, while salted egg yolk ties in the buttery element of fat we would ubiquitously see as the inclusion of mayonnaise.
Something, 2/F, 98 Wukang Lu, by Wuyuan Lu 武康路98号2楼, 近五原路
Yuan You Tao
Hunan Beef Tartare (RMB98)
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Yuan You Tao's Hunan Beef Tartare (RMB98) has remained a mainstay on the menu since day one – it nails the landing so hard as a fusion dish that still aligns with the Hunan cuisine vein running through the roster of dishes on offer.
A combination of two classics – beef tartare and Hunanese smashed chili century egg (shao lajiao pidan 烧辣椒皮蛋) – the dish sees petite diced Australian beef united with shallots, vinegar, soy sauce and scorched zhangshugang (樟树港), a Hunanese green chili.
Minced century egg lends a mellowing hint of creaminess, a replacement for tartare’s conventional mayonnaise.
Yuan You Tao (园有桃), 167 Xinle Lu, by Donghu Lu 新乐路167号, 近东湖路
Yone
Australia M5 Wagyu Tartar (RMB188)
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A combination of the popular Western-style beef tartare and Japanese potato salad, the Australia M5 Wagyu Tartar (RMB188) at the recently opened Yone in The Shanghai EDITION is nestled between a base of white miso-laden potato gratin and a piped tuft of rich egg yolk with cheese, brûléed and speckled with togarashi spice.
Potato chips serve as a spoon with the benefit of bonus crunch.
Yone, 27/F, The Shanghai EDITION, 199 Nanjing Dong Lu, by Jiangxi Zhong Lu 南京东路199号, 近江西中路
[Cover image by Sophie Steiner/That's]
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