Sumptuous Summer Eats at Duli & ÔDelice

By Sophie Steiner, July 16, 2024

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Duli 

This spring, Just Pocket on Yanping Lu was converted into beloved vegan resto Duli, an eatery that has seen owner Thijs Bosma and partner Lyn Yan create something truly unique  normalizing the experience of eating vegan for plant-based eaters and carnivores alike. 

The new pet-friendly outpost also has outdoor seating, coinciding with their summer menu launch, with new dishes curated by none other than Shanghai's busiest chef, Andrew Moo, plus a 'secret chef' contributor.

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Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s

Shanghai’s first fully plant-based casual bistro continues to make major waves in the vegan dining scene through the continuous use of bold flavors, honoring each ingredient for what it is, rather than trying to make it into something that it’s not (no vegan in a 'meat' disguise here).

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A prime example being Duli’s newest top selling item, Xinjiang-Spiced Mushroom Kebabs (RMB78) – one of the best vegan dishes we have ever eaten. 

Alternating pleats of marinated and tender oyster mushrooms and equally springy seitan (a protein source made from wheat gluten) are skewered and grilled, then finished with a liberal sprinkling of chili, sesame, and brown sugar-crumbled mixed nuts.

Plated above a lush tahini cashew hummus, the glossy glaze leaves diners equal parts sticky and satisfied.

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On the refreshing front, the Sichuan Kou Shui Pani Puri (RMB65) sees hollowed out chickpea flour half-spheres (aka pani puri) stuffed to the brim with a velvety beetroot and lentil tartare.

Tart pickled radish and micro greens brighten the plate, while a whipped avocado purée amplifies the contrast between the crispy shell and creamy filling.

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Kimchi Seaweed Cold Noodle (RMB68) beg to be tossed – slippery rice noodles slathered in homemade kimchi dressing, amplified by fried tofu, spinach, yanbian apple pear, pickled cucumber, Korean seaweed, and candied walnuts. 

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Ideal for this scorching heat, the balance of sour, sweet, pickled and pungent continually whets the appetite with each forkful. 

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Duli Lush (RMB68)
– Sloe gin, Taiwan winter melon, plum, cinnamon. Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s

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Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s

Oyster mushroom is scored, marinated and seared in the style of Cantonese char siu pork belly, the inspiration for Duli’s newest menu addition (with a debut slated for the end of July), the Char Siu Mushroom Risotto (RMB89)

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A base of rice simmered in coconut milk and nutritional yeast absorbs the savory and sweet flavors of the marinade, amplified by homemade ginger scallion sauce.

Finally, flash-fried enoki mushrooms and sesame pangritata lend a necessary textural crunch. 

Duli, 227 Yanping Lu, by Kangding Lu, 延平路227号, 近康定路.


Ôdelice

Ôdelice has been serving up French bistro fare along Shanghai’s tree-lined, leafy green Xinle Lu since 2013.

Backed by restaurateur Alin Zhu, Ôdelice currently has five branches in Hong Kong – a testament to the brand success.

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The venue’s main draw – aside from its prime location adjacent to the always-bustling Donghu Lu / Xinle Lu / Fumin Lu intersection – is the sprawling dog-friendly terrace, outfitted in wicker blue furniture and an abundance of greenery.

Providing a semi-covered courtyard haven, apart from the constant hubbub that surrounds it, Ôdelice is the ultimate spot for anything from a friendly catchup to a working session to a midday respite from the city’s hustle and bustle, all while still remaining in the heart of Shanghai’s former French Concession. 

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Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s

Available on weekends and holidays from 10am-3pm, brunch sees a range of galettes, pasta, egg-centric plates and bistro favorites.

The menu’s core dish – a gluten-free, buckwheat flour galette – makes a showing in numerous forms on each of the venue’s brunch, lunch, and dinner menus.

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The Complete Royale Galette (RMB78) – the most popular of all the crackly-edged, savory crepes – begins with a thick shmear of black truffle sauce across French ham and Emmental cheese.

Just as we prefer it, a requisite sunny side up egg adorns the top, just asking to be pierced and ooze, creating a glossy, savory sheen across all ingredients it encounters. 

READ MORE: Get Egg-cited for All This Egg Yolk Porn

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The Stewed Beef Cheek Sandwich (RMB108) is a must-order, replete with a generous heaping of red-wine and onion-braised shredded beef that’s been simmering in its own juices for three hours.

Melted mozzarella, pickles, tomato, butter lettuce, sliced avocado and a nip of heat from chipotle make for one structurally sound, stacked sando. 

The sandwich arrives tableside with some righteous parmesan fries. Score. 

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Sitting at the cross-section of tomato sauce, eggs in purgatory and traditional North African/Middle Eastern Shakshuka (RMB88), the sweet tomato gravy here involves minced red and yellow bell peppers and onion, sans the typical shakshuka spices, like cumin and sweet paprika.

Sheathed by torched avocado, two plump osen eggs take the place of the more customary steamed eggs, with the addition of garlic toast. 

With the purchase of any brunch item, diners can throw down an extra RMB10 for an Americano or Iced Lemon Tea or RMB15 for a latte or cappuccino.

Other add-ons span RMB10 for sourdough or garlic butter toast; RMB20 for Sicilian sausage, three slices of bacon, half an avocado, or smoked salmon; RMB48 for oatmeal berry Greek yogurt; or RMB58 for burrata. 

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Lunch follows – available every weekday from 10am to 2pm – building on the brunch menu with even more salads, pastas and risottos, a wider variety of galettes and bistro favorites, as well as sides, sweet French crêpes and desserts.

During the lunch window, and with any lunch main dish purchase, diners can enjoy a free daily soup or iced lemon tea, hot tea or americano; or upgrade your beverage to a latte, cappuccino or lemon juice for just RMB10

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To fuel your workday, the Tuna Salad (RMB108) is a rainbow of a plate, with sesame-crusted tuna, fanned out avocado wedges, ruby-hued watermelon radish, chopped bell peppers, chickpeas and greens, all tossed in a zippy vinaigrette.

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Another galette go-to, the Smoked Salmon Galette (RMB88) pulls together spinach and herbaceous basil pesto, a tartare dipping sauce and that same obligatory runny yolk. 

DSC07567.jpgFrench Ham & Mushrooms Spaghetti (RMB78)Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s

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As classic as it comes, the Beef Tartare (RMB98) sees chopped raw beef tossed with gherkins, capers and scallions, finished with a shiny yellow yolk – one that acts as the smarmy sauce for combining all ingredients. 

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Encircled by pani puri – concave chickpea flour crisps – diners are encouraged to spoon said tartare inside, the pani puri shell acting as the ideal scooping vessel. 

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Arguably our favorite bite on the entire menu, the Lemon Curd Cake (RMB58) is an ultra-dense, lemon scented cake with a caramelized top.

But the key is in the pressing that happens post-baking, condensing the cake in onto itself, resulting in a grainier, treacly texture, akin in mouthfeel to basbousa – a Middle Eastern semolina cake soaked in sugar syrup. 

Flanked by two thick dollops of homemade luscious lemon curd, and topped with a melting scoop of lemon caramel-dribbled and Biscoff cookie-dusted vanilla ice cream, this cake truly is what lemon dreams are made of.

READ MORE: 11 of Shanghai's Most Refreshing Lemon Desserts for Summer

There’s an equally appetizing dinner menu that we vow to return for. 

Ôdelice, 208 Xinle Lu, by Donghu Lu, 新乐路208号, 近东湖路.


[Cover image by Sophie Steiner/That's]

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